Wednesday, 7 September 2011

Black Series, for "Heavy Metal" expo, NovaBelgica Art Gallery, 30 Sep - 6 Nov 2011

Image © Trëz Orb
Skull I, 2005
Skull III (crow skull)
Skull III (crow skull)
All images clickable.

For the last weeks, with vacation breaks and other interruptions, I have been working on a little collection for a local exhibition here in Belgium.

I am very excited about this because of the theme and title, which is open to interpretation as if referring to the material or the music - both two of my great passions.
When I first heard about it I just had to ask Tim (gallery owner, whose blacksmith and sculpture work I really admire) to please let me participate! which he kindly did.

Skull X
Skull V (cat skull)
Radius and Ulna lariat
Venus Sigil
I have to say at first I had trouble coming up with designs. I was just too worried about it I think :D but that was just a temporary madness ;) as a main collection, I decided to go for a black series -and that is the very original title I am giving to it- and go back to a theme with which I consider I started to really find my own language, which is the skull (see Skull I above, from 2005), not so much because of the figure itself, but because it sort of set the tone for my work.

Skull IV
I decided to really focus on the skull itself again, and pick up where I left (after all I had only made two Skulls before!) and continue with Skull III to Skull X, and a few other sort of related subjects. You can imagine my delighted surprise when I saw the flyer for the exposition featuring a skull as well.

For this series I wanted to keep the work hours down and the pieces affordable, so I omitted more elaborate hand-fabricated settings. This also allowed me to produce more pieces in a relatively short time which I think kept the entire series quite consistent. I really, really enjoyed making these, most of all -no susprise there- the enamel work.

At the end of the day... I wonder why I have not made more pieces in this style, since it is actually the kind of stuff I like to wear the most :) this should be remedied and I think I will continue the series in the future.

Chalk Pentagram
TBC II, 2009
Skull IX (skull cup)
Skull VII (baby skull)
So, speaking about the enamel, I chose a white over black technique. This is against what we learned in school for vitrifiable paints (onglaze, china paints): build up darker colours over a white or light opaque background. Already back in school days, I remember making a little palette of the colours over opaque black, to see how it worked. It is certainly not possible to attain the same level of detail this way, especially with colour, but I think it is still valid, especially for certain subjects, in my opinion it fits these skull and bone designs pretty well.


I worked with a very oily mix on several pieces (for example Skull III, V, VII, X), which invites to paint more spontaneously, almost like with watercolour, and also allows a fluid line for symbols (Venus Sigil, Diabolical Sigil I), but then poses challenges when it comes to evaporating the oil and firing. I should make tests in the future with more volatile oils, but I am afraid the fluidity will also be affected.
A second or third fire with a mix heavier on the pigment helped achieve a little more detail here and there. I don't think any of the pieces has more than 4 fires (after the initial opaque base of black, which adds 2 to 4 more fires) which must be a record for me :)

For other pieces (for example Skull IV, IX) I worked exclusively with a thicker mix, and I could achieve quite a bit of detail and subtler shadings.


I also experimented with white conté crayons (Chalk Skull, Diabolical Sigil II). I wanted to achieve a chalk graffiti effect, and the white conté crayon worked prefectly. I found three different fragments of crayon in my old school bag, and one of them worked much better than the others. I hope I can find this sort of crayon again in the future if I feel like using it again, although I think its use is limited. In my rather brief investigation as to the composition of the crayons, it may mainly be kaolin clay and wax.
I worked over a matte ground surface, then fired, and to my surprise the colour was fixed to the enamel, and kept part of its gritty texture.

Diabolical Sigil II
Diabolical Sigil I
Spine
group picture

For the necklace parts, I chose sterling silver patinated black and black glass to keep it monochrome, a combination I had already used for TBC II (which I will probably also show in the exhibition, together with TBC III, 2010). A few pieces have onyx substituting for black glass, and/or grey and black banded marble/jasper.

For a few smaller pieces I used only copper and non-precious metal chains to keep costs down.

Thursday, 21 July 2011

Cold

A project I have been working on for the last weeks, is my submission to GreenLion Gallery's upcoming exhibition “The Kiss: Inspirations from The Cure”, running from September 15  to October 15, 2011 at GreenLion Gallery, 150 E Fulton, Grand Rapids, MI, USA, to which I have just been informed has been accepted!
Transparent and opalescent enamels over fine silver,
onglaze paints, sterling silver, amethyst, quartz.
 My submission is titled Cold, after the The Cure song of the same name from the album Pornography (1982) which is one of my favourite albums by them.

everything as COLD as silence
Part of the lyrics (below) written on the inside of the piece

Scarred
Your back was turned
Curled like an embryo
Take another face
You will be kissed again
I was cold as I mouthed the words
And crawled across the mirror
I wait
Await the next breath
Your name
Like ice into my heart
A shallow grave
A monument to the ruined age
Ice in my eyes
And eyes like ice don't move
Screaming at the moon
Another past time
Your name
Like ice into my heart
Everything as cold as life
Can no one save you?
Everything
As cold as silence
And you never say a word


Your name
Like ice into my heart
Your name
Like ice into my heart


For this piece I worked over silver, even though I most commonly work over copper, since I wanted to work with very cool hues for obvious reasons, and I also wanted to preserve the reflection of the metal below.
The following are a few work in progress pictures and explanations. The pictures can be clicked to enlarge:


Working from a photoshopping I did years ago,
sketching, choosing enamel colours and stones. 
Shaping the silver base over plasticine.
First two (three) layers. First I enamelled the back and then
the front with silver flux.  Here after firing a layer of purple
enamel for the hair.
Here showing the opalescence, changing with the angle.
This has about 15 layers (firings). 
The system to hang the quartz needles from, and tube rivets
for a cold connexion of the enamel, fabricated in sterling silver.

I had to drill these natural quartz crystals that I have had for
many years, with diamond bits. Quartz is very hard, this long
 job was very hard on my wrists!

I was happy to see the little prisms diffracting the light!
After painting details with onglaze oil paints, another 4 firings.

Lettering on the inside, also done with onglaze oil paints.

Finished! 

Sunday, 26 June 2011

26 June 2011

It has been a while! I haven't been keeping up with these entries. I had forgotten about it to be honest!

Today I decided to change slightly the way I do my jewellery. I should in fact work on two (three) pieces I have started, to submit for two exhibitions. One is nearly finished, the other in the same series I had to start over with, and the last is well underway.

But sometimes we just get the urge to do something new, right? I especially do when something is not working out, I then move on to another thing, and after a bit I have renewed energy to face the problematic piece.

So what I have been doing today is...

No... not playing with a monocle. Well, sort of ;)


I have been working on a "master" setting of sorts. I normally produce more enamels than I can ever set, for several reasons: because I prefer enamelling, because I am better at it, because I am lazy about making settings, because I am out of this or that kind of silver, etc.

Working with rich low brass

So I have decided to make a few settings of the shapes I most commonly use, and then have a mold and casts made out of it (silver and possibly bronze as well). This does limit a bit the shape and size of the coppers I make, but after going through my sketch books, I did see certain shapes recurring often, with very slight differences in shape or size. I also thought, that when you buy a painting, you don't necessarily ask for a frame to be done from scratch to suit that particular painting! that can be done sometimes, but for more special pieces.

So, I narrowed down to a number of shapes, and I got started with my first setting. With cast settings, I hope to speed up my production!

Not a round one in fact! Round settings are easy enough to make that I don't think I will make a mold of one.
Shaping both elements into a circle makes it easier to fit them to each other in order to solder them together.
I will then split it again and work the shape I want.
The little piece to the left, though, that was a trickier soldering operation:
First soldering rings to the sheet, then:
Soldering the entire thing to half round wire.

At which point I took a break to eat something and write this down :) back to the workbench!

Edit:

Taking shape. This is all for today though. 

Sunday, 10 April 2011

10 April 2011

Today I decided to try another way to build a setting, a variation on something I did before for Givrer. I still had enough silver for this light setting so I went ahead. I built it for the piece I finished yesterday, I haven't decided what I will be calling it yet!

With a pair of matching earrings :)
 It is a rapeseed field in one of the last misty days before Spring.

Enamel over copper, silver foil sterling silver, glass beads and grey moonstone beads.
I love how the light reflects through the yellow and green enamels on to the silver foil. It is a great contrast with the grey around it, and I think it translates rather well the brightness of the yellow flowers in a grey day.
I used some of my treasured and now sadly unavailable uranium yellow. I failed to stock up in time and so now I have so very little left. So sad!

I love to play with the macro objective ;)



 I found these glass beads some time ago. It is sometimes difficult to find exactly what I want. My working process is result-oriented, so I usually have a very clear idea of what I want, and it is sometimes difficult to find exactly the right materials in the exact shade I want!
With this in mind I have been thinking lately of picking up lampworking. I got a book... Then I could make my own beads. I don't know if I understood correctly, but I think I could use my enamels over the glass, wouldn't it be nice to be able to make matching beads? I don't think they have the same COE but I have seen this mentioned in my book and in different places. Perhaps in thin layers? or with a good annealing? (luckly I already have kilns!) it has to be tried :D I shall invest in a few tools and materials soon.



Saturday, 9 April 2011

9 April 2011

Today I have been working on several enamel bases that I had already started working some time ago, and a couple that were just blank with the base layer. I am mostly using a variation of this technique I wrote about here. I have been using this technique almost exclusively for the last few years, for whatever reason.

I am working on several pieces of my Mist series, a couple in a beginning-of-spring spin-off of the Mist series, and another pair of the Àlbers Argentats series. I like to work on several pieces at once to streamline the process (enamelling and firing while other pieces are cooling down etc).

Loki keeps me company
I spent a few hours washing and making a couple of colour/opal palettes as well. This is often the case when trying things out... I could try out stuff on the pieces directly, but I prefer to have more control ;) perhaps because my time is so limited.

All in all it was a productive day. Unlike working at the jewellery bench, when I work at the enamelling desk I usually feel more accomplished. I hope some day to have the same level of control when making settings.
And this is why I am years behind in making settings for my enamels...

Here are the pieces I have been working on today (I have the finished Àlbers Argentats I in there for reference). They are not finished yet:

Oh, and the "moon tree" (working title) piece I had forgotten to mention... which is nowhere near finished.

And these two, the copper shaping and base layer were done some time ago, but the painting enamelling I started and finished today! Now they have to wait for settings ;) I even need to get more silver, so it will take a while.


The transition of winter to spring. These were "inspired" by views of the Flemish landscape. A field of rapeseed that was an almost painful splash of yellow and green in an otherwise grey and misty landscape, and the new leaves sprouting from an oak sapling. The beads in the middle I got some time ago for these pieces. I prefer to buy the beads beforehand to be able to match the enamel as much as possible.

Sunday, 13 March 2011

Disaster relief

Through the month of March I will donate 80 % of all the proceeds of my pattern sales to the Japanese Red Cross disaster relief for Japan.


You can find all my patterns in my Ravelry shop.

Sunday, 20 February 2011

Somnium

Somnium is a shallow triangular shawl with dramatic points and fringe tassels, made in a luxurious yarn that drapes beautifully and knits up fast (only every 4th row is purled).

A little tasseled pouch close to the center top can be worn as a hood if draped around the head.

Exact gauge is not important for this project. Thicker yarns are recommended. Sample knitted with three skeins of Lang Yarns Silk Dream in colourway 696.0080.

Approximate measurements: 160 x 70 cm (63” x 27”).





2€



Thursday, 10 February 2011

Joies d’artista. Del modernisme a l’avantguarda (Part IV)

(Artist’s Jewels. From Modernisme to the Avant-garde, part IV)
See part I here, part II here, part III here.


Fuset i Grau, c. 1920

 Fuset i Grau, c. 1920


 Fuset i Grau, c. 1920

Attributed to Joieria Valentí, c. 1925

Lluís Masriera, c.1909-1915

Lluís Masriera, c.1910-1916


Lluís Masriera, c.1909-1916


Lluís Masriera, c.1920

Joaquim Carreras Nolla, c. 1920

Lluís Masriera, c.1925-1930


Lluís Masriera, c.1925-1930




Lluís Masriera, c.1920-1930



Lluís Masriera, c.1940




Lluís Masriera, c.1920-1925


Louis Cartier, ?

Josep Lluís Sert/Rogeli Roca Plans, c. 1940-1950

Joieria Roca, c. 1930

Josep Lluís Sert/Rogeli Roca Plans, c. 1940-1950

Jaume Mercadé, 1925

Jaume Mercadé, c. 1928